Driving the Ring Road

Around Iceland by road

Twelve days, about 3,000 km of driving, and an almost complete loop around Iceland’s Ring Road. This was easily one of our biggest trips of the year, and one we’d been looking forward to for a long time.

Iceland turned out to be one of those places where the drive is just as memorable as the destinations. We’d set off with a few places in mind, only to find ourselves pulling over again and again for another waterfall, a mountain view, a stretch of coastline, or simply a scene that looked too good to pass by.

We travelled through little fishing towns, wide open valleys, black-sand beaches, glacier country and geothermal landscapes. Even after days on the road, there was always something different around the next corner.

And yes, I took way too many photos. :)

South Coast

The South Coast was a spectacular way to begin the journey. We stopped at Seljalandsfoss and the tucked-away Gljúfrabúi, then continued to Skógafoss and Kvernufoss. Four waterfalls, each with its own setting and character, and plenty of reasons to keep the camera out.

In Vík, we stopped at The Soup Company for a warming bowl of soup served inside a black bread bowl, then visited the town’s picturesque red-roofed church nearby. It was a simple but memorable break from sightseeing.

Farther east, we explored Dyrhólaey and Reynisfjara, where the dark volcanic sand, dramatic cliffs and powerful Atlantic waves made the coast feel completely different from the green countryside we’d just driven through.

As we continued toward Skaftafell and the glacier country, the landscape changed again. Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon and nearby Diamond Beach were among the places I’d been especially excited to see. Watching icebergs in the lagoon and seeing pieces of ice scattered along the black shore was a reminder of just how unusual Iceland’s scenery can be.

We also made our way toward Stokksnes and Vestrahorn, where the mountain rises dramatically above the coast. By this point, it felt as though we’d seen several different countries’ worth of landscapes in just a few days.

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Two different adventures

One of the most memorable days was also the day our group split up for two completely different adventures.

Three of us (the wife and kids) took on the Fimmvörðuháls hike, a demanding route of about 25 km with roughly 1,286 m of elevation gain. The trail crosses a remarkable stretch of Icelandic mountain scenery, and it was a long day on foot. From the photos and stories afterward, it was clear that the effort had been worth it.

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I decided to skip the big hike and took the ferry to Vestmannaeyjar, the Westman Islands, instead. Spending the day exploring an island off the South Coast was a completely different experience from hiking through the mountains, but it turned out to be one of my favourite surprises of the trip.

It was fun to compare our days afterward. Same trip, same day, and two very different sides of Iceland.

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East and North Iceland

After the South Coast, we continued past Höfn and Vestrahorn into East Iceland. The roads curved around fjords and mountains, with small fishing villages scattered along the coast. We explored the area around Egilsstaðir and Seyðisfjörður, where the colourful streets and mountain backdrop made another memorable stop. This part of the drive felt quieter and more remote, but no less beautiful.

Heading north, the landscape changed once again. Dettifoss showed us the sheer power of Iceland’s waterfalls, while the steaming ground around Hverir looked almost like another planet. We spent time around Lake Mývatn before continuing toward Akureyri and the northern fjords.

One of the best breaks from all that driving was Earth Lagoon near Mývatn. All five of us went together, and soaking in the warm geothermal water was a welcome change from hiking and sightseeing. Apparently, one lagoon wasn’t enough for my wife. She enjoyed it so much that she went to Forest Lagoon near Akureyri later that same day. She really does love hot springs! ;)

She also loves animals, which meant our drives came with plenty of unexpected photo stops. Whenever we passed sheep grazing in a field or Icelandic horses near the roadside, I’d hear, “Slow down!” or “Can we stop?” We weren’t always in a hurry anyway, and those little pauses became part of the fun. Of course, we stopped somewhere safe before taking photos.

One chilly evening in Akureyri, we walked just a few steps from our accommodation to Brynja for its famous soft-serve ice cream. Eating ice cream in the cold after dinner somehow felt perfectly normal in Iceland. ;)

Around Akureyri and the northern fjords, we enjoyed another side of Iceland: small harbours, winding roads and mountains rising straight from the water. We explored the area around Siglufjörður and Ólafsfjörður, where the scenery felt very different from the busy South Coast. It was hard to believe how much the landscape could change within a single road trip.

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Snæfellsnes Peninsula

From North Iceland, we made our way west to the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. By then we’d seen so many waterfalls, mountains and coastlines, but this area still managed to surprise us. Around Grundarfjörður, Kirkjufell and its nearby waterfall were as striking in person as they looked in photographs.

We continued exploring the peninsula’s coastline, stopping at places such as Djúpalónssandur, Arnarstapi and Hellnar. The lava fields, rocky cliffs and little fishing communities gave every stretch of road a different character. We also stopped at Rauðfeldsgjá Gorge, with its narrow opening between towering rock walls, and enjoyed the simple beauty of the peninsula’s black churches and quiet coastal viewpoints.

The coastline around Arnarstapi was particularly impressive, with dramatic cliffs, unusual rock formations and seabirds flying overhead. We spent some time walking along the cliffs and enjoying the views of the Atlantic Ocean. It was one of those places where we kept stopping to take photos because there was something interesting around every corner.

One of our favourite stops was Ytri-Tunga Beach, where we went to watch seals. There was a small entrance fee, but it was worth it. We walked along the rocky shoreline and saw seals surprisingly close to us. My wife was especially happy, of course! After all those roadside stops for sheep and horses, getting to watch seals in their natural habitat was a lovely addition to the trip.

Another place that really caught our attention was Ingjaldshólskirkja, a beautiful little church with a bright red roof and the Snæfellsjökull glacier in the background. It’s one of the most photographed churches in Iceland, and it’s easy to see why. The setting was absolutely stunning, and we ended up spending quite a bit of time there, walking around and taking photos from different angles. The church itself dates back to 1903, but the site has a much longer history. It was one of those places where we were happy to slow down and simply enjoy the scenery.

Snæfellsnes had a little of everything: mountains, beaches, villages, lava fields, dramatic cliffs and wildlife. It ended up being one of my favourite parts of the whole journey.

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Reykjavík and the Golden Circle

After so many days of driving, we spent the final part of the trip exploring Reykjavík and the surrounding area. It was nice to slow down a little, walk through the city centre, wander along the waterfront and enjoy a different side of Iceland.

We also made time for the Golden Circle, including Þingvellir and the geothermal area around Strokkur. Watching a geyser erupt never really gets old. We also explored around Hveragerði and Reykjadalur. By the end of the trip, we were happy to have seen so much, even though plenty of places on our original itinerary had to be left for another visit.

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Food Along the Way

Food was another pleasant surprise. Iceland’s dairy products were excellent, the lamb was delicious, and the seafood was incredibly fresh. Between sightseeing stops, we tried all sorts of local favourites, from fish and chips at Kjöt & Fiskur in East Iceland to the famous lamb-based hot dogs at Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur in Reykjavík. We also enjoyed hearty Icelandic soups and bread at Icelandic Street Food. And I won’t forget that black bread bowl of soup at The Soup Company in Vík, or our chilly evening ice cream stop at Brynja in Akureyri.

Another memorable meal was a seafood dinner at Pakkhús in Höfn. After a long day exploring the South Coast and glacier region, we treated ourselves to a wonderful selection of fresh seafood. It was a perfect way to end the day.

One of the most memorable meals was at Friðheimar, the tomato greenhouse restaurant near the Golden Circle. We were lucky to get a table without a reservation, which can be difficult there. Eating among rows of tomato plants was an experience in itself, and we enjoyed the famous tomato soup, seafood and freshly baked bread. Best of all, the restaurant gave us a huge bag of leftover bread to take away. We certainly weren’t going to waste that! ;)

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A few things we’ll remember

Of course, Iceland also had a way of making our wallets hurt a little. It’s an expensive place to travel, and accommodation and car rentals were definitely not cheap. Still, looking back at everything we saw and experienced, it was worth it.

Twelve days went by surprisingly quickly. We covered a lot of ground, but there were still places we didn’t have time to explore. That’s probably the best sign of a good trip: even after driving around almost the entire island, we’d happily go back.

Lots of driving, lots of walking, lots of good food, and way too many photos.

Definitely a trip I’ll remember for a long time.